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*Birdlady’s Babes* Hand raised baby birds are a special treat...and a big responsibility. Your new "pet" may not even know she's a bird, and she will depend on you for most of the attention and companionship that parrots crave. Parrots have an enormous potential, which could include a broad vocabulary and a repertoire of tricks, but, most likely, he won't learn them by himself. This booklet will touch on some high points to make sure that you are truly prepared to sHand raised baby birds are a special treat...and a big responsibility. Your new "pet" may not even know she's a bird, and she will depend on you for most of the attention and companionship that parrots crave. Parrots have an enormous potential, which could include a broad vocabulary and a repertoire of tricks, but, most likely, he won't learn them by himself. This booklet will touch on some high points to make sure that you are truly prepared to share your life with a bird. In the following paragraphs, I would like to cover some information that I feel is important and will make your lives together longer, happier and healthier. To those of you who are old hands at baby birds....read on...we can all learn from each other. I'd love to swap stories and share experiences with you. This will give you an idea of how I do it and, if some of it works for you, GREAT. We all have our own way. On the subject of cages: Make sure the cage is big enough !!! That means that the very minimum size should easily accommodate the most energetic flapping that your bird can muster; Wings should not encounter any obstacle. This size cage should only be considered if your bird gets several opportunities daily to be out of the enclosure and free to adventure on you, a playpen or a perch. (Which, I'm sure it does, else why would you go to the expense of buying a hand raised baby bird,...just to ruin it by neglect.) If you have a bird with a long tail, or one that is in his cage for a day or more at a time, then you need to invest in a larger habitat. Keep the cage low; height is might in the avian world. Don't let the level of the favorite perch be any higher than your chest, as you stand next to it. Make a habit of walking up to your baby often, opening the door and asking it to "step up". (Always be patient but firm. Remember, you are the boss.) To raise a friendly and willing baby takes some work....but make it play. If you see that Jr. is not receptive, always end your encounter on a positive note, and come back later...perhaps with a special treat. (Don't be too quick. You don't want it to look like you're rewarding obstinate behavior.) Always insist that your bird remain on it's cage or perch at all times unless it is removed from same by you or some other responsible person. Don't allow your bird to wander at will! It is terribly cute to see a little parrot trying to follow his master down the dark hallway, but it becomes an anguished nightmare when that same parrot is killed by a running child, an unwary guest or even the owner herself when it is stepped on. I have heard so many awful stories about a beautiful bird who met an untimely death, because of unsupervised wanderings. Don't let it happen to your baby!! Promise yourself right now to enforce the cage or perch rule stringently. I try to have several "bird safe" areas around my home, so that I can have my favorite pal around while I'm doing my daily chores. Toby has a large cage in the livingroom, as well as portable perches, a play area in the bathroom on a 'Boing' over the tub and a choice tree or two. We spend a lot of time together, that way without him actually having to be on me. One toy that I highly recommend, is a lava rock that is hung from a large link dog chain. I find that most birds really enjoy hanging, swinging, biting and fighting with this type of toy, and the roughness of the rock does a nice job of wearing down those sharp little toenails and beaks. Another wonderful toy that I mentioned above is a Boing. The Boing is a cotton rope woven over a thick wire that has be curled like a spring and hangs from the ceiling. Be sure to protect the ceiling from chewing by putting a pizza pan or a #10 can that has been drilled in the center on the hook that the toy attaches to. Your young parrot needs plenty of exercise and stimulation; It's up to you to see that he gets it. That nice, big, cage is going to house and protect your bird as she grows and will be the object of much attention for many years to come....so don't scrimp ! As for perches: I prefer to use natural, untreated wood, such as Eucalyptus or Oak, (avoid Manzanita, it's too slippery). Just make sure that it comes from an area that is not adjacent to a major thoroughfare and has not been sprayed with insecticides; Replace as needed. All birds love to chew, so why not supply them with edible perches and an occasional branch of newly budding eucalyptus. They will be better for your efforts and so will the furniture. Your baby also needs a Sandyperch in his cage. On the subject of safety: Probably the single most important thing that you can do to keep your birds safe is to clip their wings. A bird that cannot fly will not maim himself on the ceiling fan, he cannot break his neck flying into the sliding glass door, window, mirror, nor can he drown in the bathtub or toilet as readily. One more thing, ...he cannot fly away and face an almost certain death in a foreign environment. I will be happy to show anyone how to do a "clip job" and, of course, I will gladly render the service myself. With so much help, you have no excuse not to clip those wings, trust me, it's the best way!! Between clipping wings and keeping Jr. on his cage or perch, you have dealt with approximately 75% of your potential problems, here is an incomplete list of some of the others: Electrical wires...or anything else that the little "rodent" can chew, such as wooden pencils, leaded glass, the foil off of a wine bottle, many plants, rubber in any form, and anything with the potential of splintering into shards, such as plastic toys designed for much smaller birds. Small bodies of water; from the toilet to the Koi pond could be hazardous to your babies health. Birds drown regularly, and need to be supervised around water. I love to shower with my pet birds, but I close the lid on the toilet and remove the bird if I have to leave the room, and there is standing water in the tub. (Be prepared to laugh a lot. They love a shower and tend to get very excited and clown like.) Birds around the pool, are cool...but only if there is a life guard on duty. Watch out for hot things, too. That pot of boiling water that is meant for the spaghetti could be the end of your little pal if you should move to close to it with "you know who" on your shoulder. I once heard of a bird who fell off of her owners shoulder on to some noodles that had just been dumped into a colander to drain. That bird suffered second degree burns, that would have been much worse, had it not been for the instant intervention of a dinner guest. Some pets are not to be trusted with a bird, but usually that depends on the size of the bird in question. Large parrots command respect, but I would not allow animals to interact without my supervision. Why take unnecessary chances? If I think there is a potential problem, I don't push it...and I am very careful around any of the larger hunting dogs or terrier types. You can secure your bird, by holding your thumb over it's toes. If need be, you can then hold the bird above your head, so that the dog can't reach it, even if it jumps up on you. If you feel that your bird is in jeopardy, remove yourself and your bird from that place, immediately ! Many people enjoy taking their birds with them to visit friends. I encourage this behavior but I would caution you to be extra careful of the animals that live in the home that you are visiting. Even small dogs can be very ferocious, especially when they believe that they are defending their property against an invader. I can't begin to tell you how many hearts have been broken because an otherwise loving pet took it upon itself to attack a visiting bird that they saw as a threat. Don't use Teflon pans or Teflon burner shields or any other product that advertises itself as being non-stick if you keep birds. The gas that overheated Teflon emits is absolutely deadly. If you forget a pan that is heating up, the temperature can reach astronomical heights in a matter of minutes causing the non-stick particles to become airborne. Something called polymerfume fever results and while you may survive it your birds will surely die. Please be very careful and start now to slowly weed out your Teflon cookware and replace it with stainless steel. It will be better for you and for your birds. Ovens that have an auto-clean cycle are also deadly to avian companions. If you have an oven that is self cleaning, only use that cycle on a sunny day when you can move all of your birds outside and leave them there for at least an hour after the cleaning cycle is over. This same procedure applies to the use of aerosol over cleaners. Remove your birds to a safe area where there are NO FUMES!! An additional word of caution to those of us who use hair dryers: Many are now lined with Teflon or Teflon type coatings. Call the manufacturer of the hair dryer you use if you have questions and don't use it when your bird is in the room with you. I understand the product, Fabreeze, has been linked to the death of a number of birds so there's another product to avoid as well. One more thing....watch the hot sun and cool breezes. Either one is great, in moderation, but remember: Your little guy is supposed to stay on his perch, or maybe he's closed in his cage. When you put him in front of the window, it was 8AM ....now it's the middle of the afternoon and the scorching sun is beating, unmercifully, through the closed window pane. He's overheated, and in his panic, he tips over his water cup. You come home from work to find a bird that is in shock, and perhaps dying. I could describe a similar scenario depicting an open window and a freezing wind with rain. Never locate a bird's cage where exposure could become extreme. THINK! Remember, a birds needs are very much like our own. If it's OK for you, then your bird would probably find it comfortable. Birds, with their excellent downy under feathers need still air to combat cold and a shady spot to protect them from too much Sun. What they need the most is informed and thinking caretakers with common sense. As a bird owner, you should be prepared for that awful day when an emergency arises and, suddenly your birds nail is bleeding. (Who is your Avian Vet?) Go to your local pet shop now, before you need it, and buy some Quik-Stop. Read the label so that you are familiar with the application, and remember where you put it. Just dab it on and apply pressure, if necessary, until the bleeding stops. This is very important, because a bird does not have much blood to lose. Any sign of bleeding should be your cue to act. (Do NOT apply Quik-Stop to tissue. If the skin is torn and bleeding then you can apply pressure to an extremity or try to staunch the flow of a body wound with a clean towel but get your bird to a Dr., fast). If you find that Jr. has a broken blood feather, then your best bet is to pull out the broken shaft. Merely stopping the flow is not enough, and it can start again at the slightest bump. If you doubt your ability to do this, apply pressure to stop the bleeding until you can get her to your Avian Vet. Oh, you don't know a Avian Vet ??? Well that's the first thing you have to locate....even before you purchase a bird. This may seem like a lot to remember, but most of it is common sense. I wish more birds came with instructions. I've heard about so many senseless deaths and stupid mistakes that were the product of ignorance ! Birds are a lot like people; Every one is different. I am constantly amazed by their intelligence. I try to learn from them...as well as teach them what I would have them know. Like you, birds have various moods, and those moods should be respected by you and the rest of your family. There will be times when your bird will actively seek your attention, but if the moment is not right, then back off and allow your friend some space. No, I don't think that a bird should be the one to call all the shots. Good manners dictate a little "give and take". Birds have their own body language, just as we do, and it behooves those of us who would keep them to learn to decode the messages. Every person knows what the "terrible twos" are, in human children. Most newly weaned, baby parrots, go through a similar stage. In the wild, they would have just discovered their independence, (weaned). Now they must establish the position they are to occupy in the flock, family, forest, world. The bad news is...instincts will prevail. The good news is... this is only a phase, and with good training they will grow out of it. However, in order to become the well socialized bird that everybody wants, they will need your help. This is what you do: Your bird will go through a "don't touch me stage" and the way you handle it will affect the way she responds to petting for the rest of her life, (especially if she is an Amazon). Don't be rude or rough, but don't take no for an answer either. Lightly touch your bird, at least two or three times daily, on the nape of the neck, under the wings, around the eyes, beak and all over the back, (all the same places that he once enjoyed). He may growl and snap his wings, but remember, he just learned how to make those moves, and he's trying them out on you. Just touch him, "oh so lightly" and murmur encouragingly. When you see the head feathers start to fluff, then you will know that you are making progress. Be affectionate, be gentle, but be persistent. Everyone wants a bird that responds to petting. Remember I mentioned growling and snapping of wings ? Well guess what; they can also get nippy. (Once again, this is only a stage in their development., akin to puberty, so don't panic.) Babies wean by developing the urge to chew on everything, and they don't have any way of knowing what's O.K. and what isn't. Additionally, they don't know "how hard is too hard". You have to tell them. If Jr. is perched on your hand and decides to lean forward, and chew on your fingers...don't wait for the pinching to become painful. Simply tilt your hand forward, SLIGHTLY, and simultaneously say NO! (She will be more concerned with keeping her balance , than continuing to nibble, and the NO will inform her that she has gone too far.) If she is on your shoulder and she pinches your ear, sharply say NO and remove her from her lofty roost! Baby birds should not be allowed on your shoulder because they are still in training and have poor balance. Some adult birds cop an attitude when allowed to sit on shoulders and should not be afforded this privilege, ever. I will give any bird one chance, but the second infraction means "cage time". (Note: When you put a bird in the cage for punishment...don't "launch a tirade". Birds don't respond to negative reinforcement, and attention of any caliber is preferable to being ignored. Many times, due to a lack of understanding on the owners part, a bird is actually taught to "act up". Their "reward" being the admonishment that always follows.) Take her to her cage, put her in it, and close the door. Now, remove yourself from the vicinity and don't come back or speak to your bird, until the appropriate amount of time has elapsed. Set a timer, five to fifteen minutes is plenty of time to get your point across. Some birds will get an uppity attitude, (couldn't resist), if they are very high, on a tall cage or perch. If this happens to your baby,...... keep him low during his adolescence. Mid chest is the right height for behavior training, and newly weaned babies certainly need to see the world from this position otherwise they tend to get too feisty. Shoulders are not a perch for 'beginners', human or Psittacine. Young Parrots need the confidence and practice of fingers and arms before they work up to shoulders. Parrot caretakers need to require that their charges earn the privilege of riding at eye level. Many birds go through a phase of rodent like behavior, and no piece of clothing is safe when he is on being held by you. During this time, you should have a couple of "bird shirts" and wear them as you teach "Jaws" what is acceptable for chewing and what is not. Here again, one chance- two at the most, and it's back to the cage for contemplation. Eventually he will learn. If he wants to ride on you, he must confine his gnawing to approved objects. On the subject of actual discipline: There are things that work and things that will only make matters worse. Violence is NOT the way ! Don't ever hit a bird on the beak. Not with your fingernail, not with a pencil, cigarette lighter, Nothing. This is NOT the way to punish a bird. Likewise, don't slap, smack, hit, push or slug a bird anyplace else on it's little feathered person. You'll be the one who loses. You will lose the love and trust, not to mention the lifetime of companionship that your hand raised baby bird can give you. Raise your voice, never your hand! The ways to discipline a bird are as follows: Yell NO in your loudest voice. This is what the mama bird does, and she ought to know. Good books: Guide to a Well Behaved Parrot by Mattie Sue Athen, Companion Parrot Handbook by Sally Blanchard, Parrots for Dummies by Spadorfori & Speer. Two very helpful tools for maintaining discipline are your eyes and your fingers. A decidedly "dirty look" , (Sally Blanchard calls this the evil eye), can often get your point across when Jr. is doing something that you disapprove of such as yelling or chewing on an object that is not for that purpose. A gruff "Hey" or "No" will amplify your message. A firm command of "Up" when you offer your fingers will also enhance your dominance and alleviate any doubt as far as what you expect from your pet bird. So often we are not clear about what behavior we desire and the parrot becomes confused. An uncertain bird may feel nervous or frightened and that can lead to fear biting or a refusal to cooperate. The "Up" command should be used consistently with all pet birds, regardless of how old they are or how well behaved. Keep an unruly Jr. on your hand, rather than letting him have the run of your body. He is less cocky and more controllable on your hand and you can use the "unbalance trick", that I mentioned, if he starts to chew on something that he isn't supposed to....such as your thumb. When she is being good, hold her close to your body. This will give her a sense of security. Notice how uneasy she becomes when you hold her at arms length. This is another tool that you can use. If he has been bad, and you are carrying him to his cage, hold him as far away from your torso as possible. This will amplify your message to him, (You are a bad bird !) I've already talked about banishment to the cage...but wait.....are you sending your bad kid off to Disneyland? Maybe isolation isn't so bad if her home is truly a castle. If that is the case, then you might have to resort to the small, traveling cage, in the spare bedroom. (Be sure you don't forget her though. A timer comes in handy, and five to fifteen minutes is enough time to get your point across.) If you should decide to travel with your bird, there are a few precautions that you should take. Without the proper planning, your excursion could become a tragedy. Remember, not all merchants welcome feathered guests, so plan your outing accordingly. I like to take a small carrier with me, in case I have to make an unscheduled stop in forbidden territory. I can always pop Jr. into the box and take him with me, or leave him with some nice ticket taker in a shady and well ventilated spot. Don't ever, ever, ever leave her in the car, unsupervised. The best that can happen is that you will return to find your vehicle chewed up. The worst will be a stolen bird, or one dead from heat stroke. On the subject of heat stroke: When traveling in the summer months, be sure to take along a spray bottle filled with clean water. If your bird gets too hot, he will pant and hold his wings away from his body. This is your clue to spray him liberally. Be sure to soak the contour feathers on her breast and under her wings. Birds are very thermo-sensitive, and an overheated bird is in grave danger. I've already addressed the importance of clipping wings. This is a thousand times more important if you take your bird outside of the house !! Even with clipped wings, your bird may try or fly. The result will be flap, flap, thud....and that is not so terrible, providing it is not into the path of an oncoming car, a marching band, or out of the car window and into the busy road. Be careful about open car windows, and use caution when walking in strange areas, where unusual sights and sounds could cause a sudden panic. Always hold onto your birds feet, you never know when he might become frightened and fly off your shoulder or hand. Whether it is a Cockatiel or a Macaw, If you have a long tailed bird, you stand a greater risk of losing her because she flew away. Birds with long tails have a broader base on which to glide. All it takes is the right set of conditions such as a breeze and an open space to cause you to lose your feathered friend, even with clipped wings! I advise the caretakers of all birds to hold their thumb over one or both feet when out of doors; Consider it "insurance" Be aware of what a healthy bird looks like, and be alert to any changes in appearance or behavior. You should know your birds normal weight and what the keel bone feels like when your bird is healthy. A normal stool should be well formed and tubular with a smattering of white urates. (Of course, this will not be true if he has just eaten 7 strawberries and shared your glass of milk. Under those circumstances, it will be much looser, with little shape, if any.) Abnormal dropping are a "red flag" and could be an indication of something wrong. If things don't return to normal in a day .... call your Avian Vet and tell him/her, what's going on. If your bird is sleepy, she will fluff her feathers and close her eyes. If she is sick, she might act similarly, but her nap time will be too long, and she will not tuck one of her feet up under her. Sick birds are weak and do not usually perch normally. Another indication of illness is any deviation from predictable behavior. A talkative bird who suddenly goes mute, or a playful bird who loses interest in her toys, may be sick. Remember, birds mask illness, so you must be observant and act quickly, if you believe that something is wrong. Not all veterinarians are knowledgeable, when it comes to birds, and many are not equipped to treat them. Be sure that you already know of an Avian Vet and have that phone number handy. Don't wait till you have a problem to find a capable Doctor. Time may be precious, and sick or injured birds can't wait. There are several, fine publications available that deal with all aspects of keeping birds. Anyone interested in this subject, would benefit from a subscription to same. I have seen many good articles on parrot psychology and body language, as well as those featuring certain types of birds, and tips on their specific needs. The three that I am most familiar with are: The Companion Parrot Quarterly, Birdtalk and the A.F.A Watchbird. I like all three, for different reasons. Check them out, and see which ones appeal to you. Now we come to the subject that you've all been waiting for, (that is, if you're still awake.) Yes, you guessed it, ............diet. Parrots, abiding in the wild, are omnivorous creatures and opportunistic feeders --making the most out of whatever happens to be available. Seeds are a small part of their diet and then, only for a portion of the year. In nature, a parrot must spend hours each day foraging for the protein, fruits and vegetables that it requires for life and health. When I tell people what I feed my birds, one of the responses is, "There's no one to cook for them in the wild". Well, I won't argue, but duplicating that diet is not my goal. I have no access to the exotic insects, fruits, leaves and lizards that are indigenous to my birds natural habitat. I doubt that I'd care to cook them if I did. What I want to achieve is a whole protein, that is easily digested. This must include a complete compliment of amino acids for optimum cell growth and robust good health. What I prescribe, is a whole life diet that does not end with adulthood. This is a regime that will do more than keep your bird alive. It will give him the kind of health that creates a sheen to the feathers, clear, bright eyes, and a resistance to illness that you will envy. It's well worth the effort. This diet is comprised of a balance of nutrients, and may be varied to suit the needs of any person who desires to keep birds. The basic ingredients are chosen because of their ability to enable the bird to build strong bones, good blood, tissue, feathers, etc., when you make the effort to feed him or her correctly. How would you like to spend 20 years in a cage with only the same old, dull, seed mix every day? Hanging on to health by a thread and dying, prematurely, from the simplest cause, because you had no reserves, and could not fight off the army of encroaching bacteria. Caged, due to necessity, the food bowl must be a high point in any Parrots day. Shame on the keeper who relies on a diet of plain seed or pellets ! For those people who have only one bird, I recommend sharing human food and limiting the seed that is fed. An only bird should have at least two meals with the keeper, daily. Breakfast should be a mini portion of people fare. Anything from oatmeal to omelet is fine, but limit the ham, bacon and sausage, (because of the salt content). I don't recommend feeding Parrots donuts or other gooey goo. Instead, give your bird a healthy, one half slice of whole wheat bread, a piece of cheese and a chunk of apple to start the day. Dinner is the same: chop bones, chicken thigh bones, any kind of potato, chili and beans, beef stew, all fruits*, all vegetables, pasta, pizza, fish, etc. . Whatever you're feeding yourself should be shared with Polly. Please, use some discretion when it comes to dessert. I know many people who would never consider eating in front of their bird without offering a snack. (Please, NO CHOCOLATE, avocado* or alcohol)!!! Feed your Parrot fresh food and water daily and don't hesitate to take advantage of the wide variety of fruits and vegetables that are available with each changing season. Pellets have a place in the diet of today's pet or breeder birds but please don't make pellets the exclusive food that is fed. Claims for "complete nutrition" don't address the aspect of "Boring" and even the cutest shapes and brightest colors still aren't alive. If you have an Amazon for a pet then I must warn you; nuts in the diet may not be an option. Amazon parrots are notorious for becoming portly. If you can't feel a breast/keel bone then you have an over weight bird. Macaws are fed six to twelve nuts per bird, each day, depending on the metabolism of the bird. (Note: Macaws can metabolize the fat in nuts more effectively and seem to need them in their diet, but use some discretion.) I have met a couple of fat Cockatoos so be cautious about nuts or other fatty foods like cheese. When you offer seed, please mix it with your birds daily diet. Use a good, small hookbill mix that offers a variety of seeds. The percentage of seed in your birds diet should be no more than 20%. Hookbill birds have a beak that was made to open seed but an all seed diet nutritionally deficient ... akin to bread and water. Never give a Psittacine a full bowl of seed and expect the bird to moderate it's own consumption. This insures that even a junk food junkie won't OD on seed and large birds, such as Macaws, will have to limit their consumption of sunflower or safflower seeds, and concentrate on smaller varieties that are lower in fats and much higher in important minerals. For those of you who have many birds, or who simply don't eat at home often enough, I will tell you the basics of a cooked diet that I have fed. You can tailor it to fit your needs. RECIPE
SOAK & COOK This is the basic diet - all you have to do is bag it up into daily portions and freeze. The average Amazon needs less than 1/2 cup of food, each day, Congos eat a little more. If you are feeding three birds, then you will place an appropriate amount into each freezer bag and freeze until you need it; The height of convenience. (The food will last in your refrigerator for two days ... after which time, it should be discarded.) This, along with some fresh vegies and a piece of fruit, is all you need to insure that your bird will have a nutritionally complete diet. A good tool for offering raw fruits and vegetables is the K-bob made by Jungle Talk. You can skewer foods and hang them in your "Darlings" face so they are available at any time. If you supplement, TAKE IT EASY!, a sprinkle of Nekton-S and a pinch of calcium won't hurt as long as you DON'T GET CARRIED AWAY! That's the best insurance you can get for vibrant good health and a long life. If Jr. is being obstinate, then you need to steel your heart and cut down on the extras, so that he or she will eat at least 2/3's of this main-stay diet, each day. Sprouts are an excellent food if they are prepared properly. Improperly prepared sprouts can be a source of myriad pathogens that run the gambit from molds to Pseudomonas. Copious quantities of water is the key to successful sprouting. Rinse the grains and legumes well and soak them in a bowl or jar for eight to twelve hours. Rinse again until the rinse water runs clear enough to drink, then place the soaked sprouts into a container where they may be immersed in water and allowed to drain. In the warm, Summer weather one day of rinsing is enough to produce an emerging root. This is the stage when the plant is at it's most nutritious; don't allow roots to do more than sprout you are not trying to produce grren leaves. Do not try to sprout Sunflower Seeds, they mold too easily. You can cut up broccoli or collard greens if you are concerned about chlorophyll. Wet sprouts can be rendered dry if pellets are added to the mix. A good rule of thumb: If you wouldn't eat it...don't give it to your bird. If you wouldn't eat out of it...don't expect your bird to. Fresh food and water, daily, is a necessary component of good aviculture. Therefore, if you plan to be gone for the weekend, you need to have a trusted friend or neighbor who will look in on "Polly", and see to the food and dishes. If you don't know of anyone who can capably care for your pets, there are folks around whom you can hire, to perform that service for you. Locally I can personally recommend Debi Schmitt, 528-1454. Your veterinarian probably has some people she can recommend. Old food needs to be removed and replaced with fresh. Clean dishes are a must. Spoiled food or dirty water is a health hazard in itself, and must be avoided. Mold can be a killer, too....and dirty hands can spread bacteria that birds are sensitive to. Many organisms are "host specific" and are not spread from people to birds or vice-versa. However, one bacteria, E-coli, is quite common, and can really wreak havoc with birds. Good hygiene is essential. Prevent contamination of food stuffs and dishes by washing your hands thoroughly or wearing disposable , latex gloves. Keep Jr. away from animal feces, or freshly fertilized flower beds. Now you have the basics for a good diet and a happy, healthy life with your new bird. Go for it, and don't hesitate to call me if you have any questions. I wish you and your feathered friends all the best. The supplements that I mentioned can be found at Veterinary clinics or Pet Stores. Red Winter Wheat, Pigeon feed and grains for sprouting as well as seed mixes can be found at Templeton Feed. Health food stores have an enormous variety of seeds and grains to sprout. If you live on the Central Coast, my choice of an Avian Vet is....Dr. Susan Choy or Dr. Patrice Burroughs, at the Bear Valley Animal Clinic, 528-0693. Good Luck !!! |
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