Going Home: 'Things to have on hand' & 'What to Expect'

Hot cereal is a comfort food and good to have on hand. Instant varieties are not as nutritious but they are more convenient if your baby wants to "spoon feed". Just because your "Babe" is feeding himself doesn't mean that a warm, slurry cereal isn't appreciated. When fed from a spoon, allowing the bird to accept or decline the offer, it is a perfectly safe procedure. Just place into the babies mouth what will fit and stop when the birds says, "No more". Temperature is important!!!!! Too hot and you will cause the baby to burn herself, too cold and will you not generate any interest. WARM, (between 100 & 105), is the desired temperature; Use a candy thermometer to test the food before you offer it.

All manner of vegetables; Kale, Collards, Carrots, greens and all, Corn on the Cob, Cilantro, Peas, Sweet Potatoes or Yams (feed all "root vegetables" cooked & warmed)

All manner of fruit should be made available, the darker the color the more nutritious. Apricots are healthier than red grapes, which have more nutrition than Apples, etc. Bananas are easy for babies to eat and you can roll a piece in some colorful pellets or a small hookbill mix for added interest. No Avocado.

Dry pellets of several types; include Roudybush in the assortment. I like to offer newly weaned chicks a choice and I always include one variety that is colorful such as Kaytee or Zupreem. Any Parrots cage should have a bowl of dry pellets available at all times.

Weaning pellets that are manufactured by Scenic Diet are an ideal food to offer your new baby. The water should be about 105 when you place the pellets in it. I also like to include small pieces of banana, cooked sweet potatoes or other soft foods in the hot water bath. Don't moisten too many pellets at one time because your baby may only eat three or four from your hand. Another good food that can be fed hot and moist is Primate Biscuit, both items can be purchased from UPCO on line at www.upco.com. Other foods such as Cheerios, hard toast, cooked yams, bananas and just about anything that you can cut into a small enough piece, dip into hot water and offer will work for a willing eater. A baby who doesn't want your wet, warm offering will fling it away with disdain.

Dry Cereals such as Cheerios and Mini Shredded Wheat that is easy for birds to pick up and they are readily available. Whole grain breads are very good and you can spread on some natural peanut butter, such as Laura Schudder's, to enhance the nutritional package.

Spray Millet and raw peanuts in the shell, both are good protein sources. Grey-stripe Sunflower seeds are a nice treat but don't get carried away! Offering too much of ANY food will unbalance the nutritional value of your carefully planned menu and cause your baby to become a poor eater. Poor nutrition is a large contributor to most deaths, other than accidents. Be prudent about how many 'favorite foods' you feed to your baby. A bad diet means a compromised immune system. Bacteria, mold and virus particles are ubiquitous but a strong immune system will keep its body healthy.

Live food in a clean bowl should be served every day. (If you were given a bag of the food I make you will have already heard this but let's go over it again.) At least once a day, preferably more often, offer your feathered companion fresh fruits or vegetables that have not been 'processed'. A Shish-ka-bob feeder is ideal for this but there are many methods of presenting live food. Some folks offer whole leaves just wet from the sink and hang them for the bird to chew and shred. A freshly picked branch, resplendent with leaves and tinder twigs qualifies as live food on the day you harvest it but becomes dried entertainment on the days thereafter. Once a food is processed in any way: pasteurized, dried, frozen, cooked, steamed, stir-fried, etc. the majority, if not all, of the enzymes are destroyed. The food is still a valuable nutrient but the absence of the enzyme compliment means that the body will not utilize the food as well. According to Taber's Cyclopedic Medical Dictionary: Enzymes are organic catalyst produced by living cells but capable of acting independently. Enzymes are complex proteins that are capable of inducing chemical changes in other substances without being changed themselves. This aspect of enzymes allows a given amount of enzyme to produce literally unlimited quantities of the end product of the reaction. Enzymes are action specific and act in just one way to produce the end result; this means that the entire reaction is exceptionally pure. They are present in digestive juices, where they act upon food substances, causing them to break down into simpler compounds. They are capable of accelerating the speed of chemical reactions.

Armed with this information I'm sure that you understand just how important it is to feed 'live' food to yourself and your Parrot on a daily basis.

Offer food OFTEN through out the day; if you are eating don't be selfish. The baby will naturally want to mimic your actions. Use Modeling Behavior to encourage your new baby to eat. She will enjoy the interaction and she will learn the basics of eating by watching you. This is what the parent birds will do in the forest; the action of feeding on a particular food while the baby watches tells the youngster, "This is safe", "This is food". There are several types of 'Shish-ka-boob' type feeders, available in pet stores and catalogues, allowing you to spear the food and hang it in an obvious location where Jr. cannot ignore it. Yellow corn or Whole Wheat tortillas lend themselves well to this feeding device and can be spread with peanut butter or wrapped around some tasty greens. I'm in favor of anything that achieves the goal of presenting food and your baby is familiar with feeding from 'Shish-ka-boobs' as I use them here.

Warm water should be offered several times a day. Put the babies beak up to it or even dip it in, (gently now!), to encourage drinking/ swallowing. Some Parrots love to make 'soup' in their water bowls while others are meticulous; this is not 'species specific' but bird to bird.

Your baby was allowed to learn to fly as part of his training and socialization. In order to clip him back to, (hopefully), a non-flying ability I took one or two feathers off each wing and then waited for him to adjust to this new level and challenge. As he grew in strength he lost another and another feather until ten feathers had been removed from each wing and he was grounded. These feathers will be molted out and re-grown sometime in the future, depending on the season, the hours of light provided each day and the temperature/humidity. When you start seeing feathers that have obviously been cut in half lying on the bottom of his cage you will know that molting has begun. I am an advocate of keeping companion Parrots clipped but I am no longer certain about the clip to use. Because I was allowing your baby to fly I needed to clip both wings back simultaneously but the first molt gives you a choice; you can continue to cut both wings or you can let one grow out and clip ten feathers off the other one. My friend, Nancy Chambers, recommends the one wing clip because it doesn't allow for navigation and the bird will quickly give up trying to fly. I know that all long tailed birds and many Amazons are such strong flyers that they can achieve flight in a limited way but that is often good enough to allow them to vanish from your life. Depending on the parrot, I sometimes clip those types of adult birds on one side only when their caregivers bring them to me for grooming. I really don't like the way it looks but if it keeps them from flying off I'll suspend my esthetic judgment and opt for safety. (African Greys, Congos and Timnehs alike, are so heavy bodied and prone to splitting their chest that I continue to clip both wings on these specie of birds.)

Always praise correct behavior, whether she's taking a bite of food, or stepping up when commanded: Praise is the key to her heart. Praise makes your wishes clear. Use the 'Up', 'Down', 'Gentle' and 'No' commands to create a clear communication. Ask for what you want! Using verbal commands in a consistent manner programs both the parrot and the caretaker for success. By establishing and maintaining a strong framework of consistent commands the caregiver will keep his or her position as 'Flock Leader'. This simple procedure will assist in preventing serious behavioral problems from developing as your bird matures. Right now you are continuing to train a baby who needs to be taught 'the rules'; verbal 'cues' and body language are the tools you will use. You will need to continue using clear verbal commands throughout your relationship with 'Polly' so get accustomed to doing so now when the need for guidance is at it's peak. All animals change as they mature, birds are no exception, laying the groundwork for success by giving clear and consistent commands is one sure way to a happy life with your feathered companion.

I have done everything I can to properly socialize your new baby and now the 'torch' is passed to you. A good beginning is of major importance but that won't eliminate every behavior problem that can crop up in the years to come. Parrots are flock animals not pack animals like, for instance, dogs. Once you establish your alpha position with a canine you have that position for the life of the animal. The dynamics of a flock animal are much different with a certain amount of flux built into the structure. In such a group the 'Flock Leader' will be challenged often as the lesser members of the flock jostle one another for the most dominant position. Having a companion Parrot is much like living with a perpetual teenager. It is absolutely imperative that you follow through on all commands. I can't tell you how I shudder when I hear someone ask their bird to "Step up", and, when the Parrot refuses they say, "Oh, he doesn't want to right now so I won't insist"; that kind of behavior is not the way to maintain your rank; 'Flock Leader' is your goal, lose it and your companion will become 'out of control'. There is no training technique that will eliminate this aspect of Parrot parenthood so just accept reality and take my sage advice: Use the 'Up', 'Down', 'Gentle' and 'No' commands to create a clear communication and be consistent.

Use a stick to handle your baby at least once each day. A stick is a non-threatening method of handling that assures the holder as well as the bird. Parrots need to be accustomed to different types of perches and using a stick to step up on is another means of 'patterning for success'. There may come a time when your mother-in-law comes to visit and has to move your parrot from one place to another. Trust me, she will be grateful that your feathered friend is 'stick trained' and so will you. Some parrots go through a 'sexual maturity' that can leave them a little cranky for a season. This may happen for a number of years but be patient and your Pal will be back to normal each winter. (The 'Hormonal crazies' don't last once the bird grows older than mid-teens or so.) If your bird is stick trained you will both enjoy each other more because, during peak agitation, Jr. can come into the shower or out to the garden with equanimity. Make the footing more secure as well as colorful by winding Vet Wrap around the perch.

A Parrot needs to bathe and he should be soaked down twice a week for the health of his feathers. Having a bowl of water for him to 'spritz' off in is a good item that should be readily available but the degree of wetness that I refer to when I advise soaking means just that, soaking, sopping, dripping wet. (Since your Parrot is a Birdlady's Babe he has already experienced the shower with me there to encourage him but that is not the same as experiencing your shower so go slow and be ready to stop if he seems agitated.) I recommend showering* with your bird so you can illustrate what you intend by 'modeling behavior'. Tell your Parrot what you plan to do before you ever extend your hand, this way, when you ask your little friend to 'step up' and proceed to gently help him to achieve the desired wetness he will not be so alarmed. Of course you need to be very careful not to get water in his mouth or nares, (nose). For novice Parrot washers I suggest avoiding the head completely and concentrate on the torso and appendages. This also encourages grooming. Don't be afraid to blow-dry a Parrot who needs to dry off because the weather is a little on the cool side. (Please use common sense and keep the dryer far enough away so that the air is not too hot.) Generally speaking, if the temperature is mild enough for you it will suit your bird and he can air dry in a cozy spot. Playing with your bird in a towel is a wonderful way to interact. Peak-a-boo and tender cuddling are great pastimes that will strengthen bonds and build trust. Toweling your baby regularly will prepare him for that visit to the Vet for a nail clip or examination, however, feathers are more delicate when wet so save your towel play for times when the baby is dry.

* There are many ways of showering with your Pal but be sure that his or her footing is secure. Many people have used metal towel racks, attached to the sliding glass doors; however, several shower perches are now being manufactured. Be sure that the shower perch has three or, preferably, four large suction cups, (if the cups are not protected by fender washers of acrylic they bird will eventually chew and destroy them). If the perch is too slippery you can provide a better grip by covering the part where the bird stands with Vet Wrap.

Explain what you're doing, if she shows fear. If she seems shocked by the open trash compactor, describe the object of her fear and reassure her. Example: "This is a trash compactor", (pointing at the open compactor with your free hand), "We put trash in there", (kneeling down to have your arm level with the top of the compactor). "The trash compactor is good." "It works for us." "The trash compactor is good". "You're safe." "I'll keep you safe." "Everything is fine." Keep the conversation positive and assuring. Your might touch the compactor to show her how safe it is. If she seems calm advance her towards the lip of the compactor. If she still shows no fear you might linger a moment and speak reassuringly. NEVER force this issue. Your goal is to build her confidence in you. Reassurance must be offered often coupled with copious praise. Compliment her on her bravery. Tell her she's beautiful. Use a 'happy voice' and smile when you talk. (These are helpful skills that apply to Life, not just parrots.) Always ASK FOR WHAT YOU WANT! Instead of "Don't bite!" say, "Gentle" or "Be good". Remember to offer reassurance, "You're safe", "Everything is OK", "You're fine", etc. If 'baby' is acting up you can always hold her on her stick where she can't make as many mistakes and her grip is firmer.

Touching is important for your baby Parrot to develop her full companion potential. I like to ask a bird if I can pet her and I always pet my own face to demonstrate what I mean. I advance my hand slowly and I pause when half way to her head to wiggle my index finger and say, "Want a nice pet?" Often she will signal her acceptance by the slightest fluff of her feathers. If I don't see acceptance I may ask again but when I do commit to touching I do not approach tentatively and withdraw. Once committed I must gently extend my hand and touch, albeit gently, before I withdraw. Parrots should be touched all over their little feathered bodies each day. Handling toes and lifting wings will pattern your bird for success and it will reaffirm your leadership. I know many people who file their birds toenail just the tiniest bit each day to facilitate toe handling. Wing clipping for a bird who is used to having it's wings opened is a simple procedure. I like to put my babies on their backs and I think that it shows great trust for a Parrot to accept this position. A good way to begin acceptance of this posture is to hold her loosely against your chest and bend over at the waist. Do this slowly, all the while praising her bravery and complimenting her behavior. Whenever you work with your Parrot remember to stop on a positive note. Don't push training until the bird can no longer tolerate what is happening and begins to act out. When you see the fist signs of agitation occur stop what you are doing and go back to something easy that your bird can execute with success like "Up". When she obeys, stop with a smile on your face and give her lots of praise. You know by her behavior that you should have quit twenty seconds earlier, make this your goal next time.

Toys are a necessary component of keeping a Parrot entertained. A bored Parrot can and will develop many dysfunctional behaviors as time goes on so entertainment is not a frivolous goal. A typical cage will contain a climbing toy, a chewing toy, a puzzle toy and a toy that can be picked up and manipulated using feet and beak. Some toys offer hidey-holes for nuts and other food items to facilitate the ingestion of nutrients while challenging the problem solving aspect of a Parrots intellect. A good idea is to have an assortment of toys so that they can be rotated weekly. Remove one toy and replace it with one that the Parrot has not seen for a few weeks. Changing the placement of the other toys in the cage is also stimulating. Remember the space inside the cage is finite so don't overload this area. Your feathered friend should always have enough space to flap vigorously and swing about. Many discarded items make great fun for your Parrot; cardboard boxes that are free of staples, toilet paper rolls, junk mail, empty plastic pop bottles to name a few. Branches cut from trees that have not been sprayed with pesticides are wonderful entertainment and provide a safe adventure. (Avoid avocado branches and Red Wood.) I have used many toys that were made for human babies, just be sure that they are sturdy enough to withstand the shattering strength of you birds beak.

Grooming wings and nails will become important as time goes by. The caregiver or a qualified person who is well versed in this procedure can do wing trimming. Toenails will not be a problem if the Parrot has a Sandy Perch in her cage. I urge you to purchase a Sandy Perch or swing and place it where your bird will use it every day. If you employ this item intelligently you will never have torn and bleeding hands and arms as a result of too sharp claws. (Note: Nails that are too long will bend to one side or the other when a Parrot is placed on a flat surface such as a counter or the floor. If you notice that this is happening you may need to resort to trimming the excess length back a bit. Usually this is not necessary when using the perch I suggest.)

Remember: Your baby is in a new place where almost everything is strange; she MAY regress and temporally forget how to eat. Watch her and offer PLENTY of food those first few days. Cooked food that is still warm will facilitate eating but be careful not to burn. I wouldn't hesitate to offer a parrot hot cereal or any other slurpy food throughout his or her life: Gruel like food spells comfort to the companion Psittacine. It's normal for your Parrot to be a little nervous. This will pass in time but you can help by moving slowly and speaking lovingly. Smile and blink your eyes slowly to show him that you are non-threatening. Lower your head and offer the hair for preening; this is how birds assure each other that they mean no harm. Make your touch as gentle as possible. Your baby weighs in at around a pound or even less; we literally 'bowl them over' with our mass and strength. If he seems uneasy on your hand then work with him more on a perch instead of your hand in the first days home. Depending on your experience, you may be sending out signals that confuse and alarm him so take things slow. A nervous hand that advances and retreats is very snake like in appearance and snakes are a bird's mortal enemy. Hands that hover high above a Parrots head are reminiscent of the Hawk or Eagle who waits to swoop and kill. Balloons and ceiling fans are viewed as dangerous by most birds though familiarity can dispel these fears. Be patient and move slowly until your baby can settle into his new home.

Move slowly, she's just a baby and her balance is not well practiced for riding on humans. Use two fingers held with firmness and determination for most sized parrots and tuck your thumb down to the palm of your hand. 'Fasten the seat belt" by keeping that tucked thumb placed gently over one of your babies feet for her security. Some birds object to this at first but they have had to endure it here and it is for their own safety not to mention a method of control. Keep her off your shoulder until you both know each other better and you have established rules. If you offer your lip to be kissed from an uncertain, swaying perch, prepare for your baby bird to reach out to steady herself. Guess what she'll grab for? An ear is a terrible temptation to take hold of and the orb of the eyeball might be a baby's only place to grab if it were to suddenly fall. We have hands but all a bird has is her beak to grab with if balance is uncertain. When she does graduate to that lofty position, your shoulder, be sure to wear coarsely textured shirts or jackets so she has something to grab on to. If you remember that this baby parrot only LOOKS like an adult you will proceed more slowly; this is a 'good thing'.